WEST HOLLYWOOD. Chef Gino Angelini heads this osteria (in Italy, a simple, country restaurant where wine and food are the main attractions), and Angelenos couldn’t be happier. The space is tiny and crowded, but regulars know that a bit of a wait and no elbow room are small prices to pay for Italian food this luscious. Pumpkin tortelli with butter, sage, and asparagus is a mouthwatering first plate, while dishes like Romagna-style Dover sole, encrusted with garlic and parsley, and a breaded veal chop alla Milanese are excellent secondi.