BEVERLY HILLS. The “small plate” concept is quite popular here. You could call it Japanese tapas (tapa-nese?), but the restaurant calls it ippin-ryouri. However you label it, it’s a fun way to sample different items, especially with a group. The menu, while largely Japanese, ventures into other territory as well, and the final results are almost always successful. An Italian-influenced tomato and tofu salad is seasoned with shiso leaf-plum vinaigrette ­ a sort of Japanese salad caprese. Asian-style seafood risotto is a favorite, as is foie gras, artfully paired with lychee fruit.